Yes, yes, MUSE! She's brilliant with girl!Sam, girl!Dean. I'm not a big genderswapper, but if you haven't read Res Gestae (http://dreamlittleyo.livejournal.com/23438.html) by my glorious little beacon, dreamlittleyo you need to read that, too. And this girl has such an incredible way of writing atmosphere - haunting, achy, you can use this link to something she calls Landscape Verse (http://salinasfic.livejournal.com/tag/spn+au:+landscape+'verse). She's writing it all willy-nilly, as in... there's no true stop and start, so you could probably just start reading it anywhere, but Strange How Hard it Rains Now is what drew me in.
ignited actually has a kind of older rec list for gender (also body) swap. The thing is, you kinda gotta take it for what it is... because it's not indicative of _all_ the folks in fandom, of course. -grin- You can find that here (http://ignited.livejournal.com/381049.html#gender).
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Also? I'm writing girl!Sam & Dean. But... it's a ways away. -smiling-
Hope this helps, hon! (=